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Monday, January 3, 2011

"Christmas Eve in Mulege"

This was copied from a TripAdvisor Post about Mulege, Baja, December 20, 2005

"I have mixed feelings about posting here. Mulege is my favorite place in the Baja and don't want it to change, but that's selfish.

That said, I recommend Las Casitas, the historic inn with great charm. Price was $33US vs. $35 at La Hacienda up the street where we had to move to one night because Las Casitas was full.

Had the pig roast at Serenidad Hotel on Christmas Eve with some Americans we had met in Mulege. Later that night I wanted to see the glorious milky way again so we headed toward the lighthouse. This time we backed up into soft sand and got ourselves dug in to the hubcaps. Within minutes locals started arriving (remember it's Christmas eve) and I began to recognize families I had seen at the Pig Roast. After breaking increasingly stronger ropes, Pancho Villa came back with strong, handmade rope that got us out of the sand.

We invited all to the bar near the lighthouse for drinks. As I explained to the barkeep we had about $1000 pesos ($100 US) and if the cost hit that, alert us. Wasn't a problem as the Mexicans we met were very nice and wouldn't take advantage of 'stupido Americanos', as I called us for getting stuck.

The barmen assembled a big table for about 10 and we had a delightful time. Turns out most at the table were related. There was Pancho Villa, his sister, her young daughter (6 years old?), her older daughter and her daughter's best friend (both 15yo and enjoying a light alcoholic beverage!) and the best friend's parents, the first couple who had stopped. We drank and danced and then the DJ started Jose Feliciano's "Feliz Navidad" which, of course, we could sing along, too!! As the song ended everyone in the bar began to hug and kiss strangers wishing them "Feliz Navidad" and "Merry Christmas." It was midnight!! What a great tradition!!

The bar owners gave us a special sendoff thanking us for bringing in such a big crowd for them--all for about $30."